Nomadic trails in Kyrgyzstan – 4/10

Departure for the pass

Today is the last day of this first trek in Kyrgyzstan. We get up around 7am to enjoy the view of the lake. Then, after a time for lunch and packing our packages, we leave. Our goal of the day is a pass over 3200 meters. It is a beautiful weather and, apart from the altitude difference, the course is easy. We are still taking a break to enjoy the moment.

When the horses run away

We take this opportunity to discuss with the rider and the guide. The latter tells us his first and last Thai boxing competition. While he mimics his difficulties to walk after the fight, we do not notice the horses who take the opportunity to run away. Fortunately, our rider catches them easily.

Reuniting with the driver …

We leave and appreciate the surrounding landscapes and its birds. Indeed, in addition to eagles and other omnipresent prey birds, there are a lot of corvids here. They look like jackdaws but with a nice sharp cry. We pass the pass at 3273 m according to my altimeter. Then we arrive at the picnic point near a shepherd’s house. This is also where the driver must come to pick us up.

But the driver is absent

Our companions tell us that it is surprising, because, normally, he is there from 11h. It is yet 13h. Our guide asks us to wait a little alone because he will try to have the network a little further. He hopes to reach the driver and understand what is happening. Our rider, meanwhile, must leave. His goal is to do the opposite, in one day, of the trek we did in three! We will learn later that he finally did it in 2 days, the night path is not obvious.

The wait

So here we are alone in the Kyrgyz mountains. We all enjoy it in its own way: a little laundry in the river for the light traveler who took very little business and sunbathing on a deckchair improvised on rocks for the one who took a little more business (or who smells less good ;-)). When we wait, we see a kind of marmot. But it is smaller and white. Afterwards, the guide will tell us that it is related to its age, it must be young.

A bit of worry

It has been more than two hours now that we are alone. It starts to be long, so we scaffold our plan if the guide does not return before 18h. At that moment, we will set up the tent (we have all our things, the pack horse being left with the rider). Then we will spend the night here and leave the next day. For a first trek in Kyrgyzstan, the adventure is at the rendezvous! 🙂

The savior arrives

This is where we are, when we see our guide come back with a shepherd. He explains then that there is only one road to come here and that our driver is stuck since 11am by works on this road. Despite several phone calls, there was nothing to do, he could not pass. Fortunately, the shepherd knows someone in his village who can come by another road with a suitable 4×4. Perfect. The shepherd kindly offers tea, bread and homemade butter while waiting for this unexpected driver.

Adventure in Russian 4×4

He arrives as planned after a good hour. The 4×4 is a Lada Niva of a certain age. We go up in the back and find that there is no belt. However there are handles, that should be enough. After a few minutes, our guide wants to open the window. But this one goes on the side. The driver stops, re-positions the window and specifies that nothing should be touched …

Kyrgyz roads are above all a concept

We take the “road”. I use quotation marks because we quickly understand why our driver did not know this access. Simply because it’s not a road. We are not even sure that this is a path. At times, there is no trace on the ground, only grass. In addition, we cross several rivers. The car is leaning, but that does not seem to worry our Kyrgyz friends. Suddenly, a red light comes on the dashboard.

It stops and it starts again!

The blow of the breakdown? In the middle of the mountains with a limited network and all our luggage, we do not feel it too much … However, the driver pulls a fuse from the glove compartment and quickly places it in the dedicated location under the steering wheel. We leave immediately and finally arrive safely. Night has fallen but our driver is here, ready to take us to our accommodation in Karokol.

Arrival in Karokol

As we did not have time to eat, we take a dinner break at a roadside restaurant. Due to the delay, our driver is obliged to drive at night. These are not the best conditions: the road sometimes turns into a track and visibility is not good. We know that we are driving along Yssyk Kul Lake but do not see it. However we arrive safely at our accommodation. We take advantage of the wifi to send some messages before joining the arms of Morpheus. It is 2am … the unexpected work has a little jostled the schedule … The night will be short.

After the story of this day of our first trek in Kyrgyzstan, find the whole trek. And if you want to do this trek, you can order it here.